Sunday, April 3, 2011

Histories... Olden Times... Penang... (PART 1)

#40
3rd April

The title will talking about my hometown ----- Penang.

Everyone knows this wonderful place, a glorious place, which can let you to tantalize to taste and smell the aromas of the enriched histories in the olden times.

Well, Penang is one of the historical place that already recommended by United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). Heritage buildings, cultures, events, festivals, arts, great shopping complexes... All of these can be found in Penang. This is why Penang is so beautiful and very attractive.

Talk about heritage buildings:

Penang Supreme Courthouse
This is Penang's Supreme Court building,
a major renovation was done in 2007.
Naturally, the English heritage buildings are the most imposing. Penang was part of the British Empire for almost two hundred years.
FMS
The clock tower of the former FMS building in George Town. The building is now used as Penang's Custom Department.
The style of architecture is neo-classical which stays true to the order of architecture. A lot of fine examples can be found at the banking district at Beach Street.
Government buildings that house lawyers and decision-makers are perfect examples of British-style heritage buildings.
These buildings have massive Doric columns modeled after the Parthenon of the ancient Greek. They become fine examples of heritage buildings in Penang.
Besides the buildings, there are monuments to commemorate soldiers who fell during the war, places of worship,private mansions and also some other landmarks.
Next, come the Chinese clans. There are five major clans (kongsi) which have their own areas where the leaders hold court. This is a self-sustained community, complete with temples, mansions , residences and lecture halls.
The biggest clan house is the Khoo Kongsi. It is located in the heritage enclave. Once, it was burned down because its similarity to the Royal Palace of the Emperor of China was too close. Later, the building was rebuilt, nonetheless, the beauty of its carvings are stunning. The next one worth mentioning is the Cheah Kongsi. It is also located within the heritage zone of the inner George Town. Once inside the walls of this Kongsi, the hustle and bustle of the city outside is miraculously toned down.
Khoo Kongsi intricate details
Intricate and rich details of Khoo Kongsi's Ancestral Worship Hall.
Beautiful, intricately built temples serve as dramatic background to spacious courtyards. Life revolves around spiritual beliefs, elaborate customs, desire to prosper by trading and amassing wealth.
The beauty of the carvings came by importing Chinese artisans to come and work in Penang itself.
The last two points show how the Chinese Straits shop houses are so important to the business community in George Town. For almost two hundred years, the shophouses have played the major part in fuelling the trade on the island.
The styles of the shophouses have changed tremendously, in step with the growth of the city. Without them, the city would have lost its trademark identity. That is why a sample of a shop house graces the logo of Penang Heritage City web site.
Besides those shophouses, private mansions deserve accolades for massive restoration works like the ] Cheong Fatt Tze mansion.
Rich and powerful Muslim traders that came from India, the Middle East and Indonesia also played a significant role in building the city in the 19th century. Before air transport became available, Penang was the meeting place for pilgrims who were waiting for the trade wind to sail to Mecca. So, the city became a significant learning center for Islam. Beautiful mosques and shrines were built in the area designated by the British ruler for this group. They are also recognized as heritage buildings in Penang.
Kapitan Keling Mosque at Pitt Street
Masjid Kapitan Keling at the Street of Harmony
Other minority groups also have their special places. The Armenian Sarkies brothers, notably, built the fame Eastern and Oriental Hotel (E&O). Without doubt, it is one of the finest example of heritage hotels. The Burmese and Thais built their temples near Gurney Drive. The Hindus who are mainly from South India have their own temples all around the city. The South Indians also maintain the rows of shop houses along Chulia Street, King Street and Queen Street. So, it is hardly surprising that these streets are given the nickname "Little India".
How could UNESCO Heritage World Cities program refuse such a rich mix of history, culture and human achievement? Even then, it took us over ten years to restore a large number of heritage buildings in Penang. The streets are re-organized and the state spent a lot of resources and did plenty of research before the status of historic city was accorded to George Town on July 7th, 2008.
This process is by no means complete. With the title, comes a huge responsibility! Now we have to help maintain these treasures. By education, creating awareness and doing the right things so that the heritage buildings in Penang are cherished forever.
Kuan Yin temple at the street of harmony
Kuan Yin Goddess of Mercy Temple at the Street of Harmony is the oldest Chinese temple in Penang.
You should know that the main thing that won UNESCO officials over was the "Street of Harmony".

What is the "Street of Harmony"?

It is the presence of four major religions places of worship in one street. Notably the Jalan Kapitan Keling (formerly known as Pitt Street).
In this street, if you walk from the Heritage Enclave towards the Esplanade, you will encounter a Chinese temple (Yap Temple), a Muslim mosque (Masjid Kapitan Keling), an Indian Temple (Sri Mahamariamman Temple), another Chinese temple (Kuan Yin Temple) and St George Church. All within 2 kilometers distance in a straight line.
Actually if you walk around the city, you will see many more fine examples of Streets of Harmony, besides the "official one". You will see people can live together in peaceful conduct and respecting each others' beliefs.
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And, also talk about the heritage hotels, some great which enriched with historical cultures hotels:
Huge pillars, large sweeping staircase that leads to the ballroom, spacious rooms with wooden louvers and verandahs.
Think about the time when the gentlemen had to wear white tropical suits and the ladies strolled around in flowing gowns and holding parasols with gloved hands; and they would not be out of place when placed in such surroundings.
E&O Hotel before renovation in the 1970s
An old picture of the E&O Hotel, before countless renovations were carried out.
Many people would only think of the E&O Hotel when they talk about old distinguished hotels in Penang. I beg to differ, it's sister hotel, the Lone Pine Hotelat Batu Ferringhi, is also something you would like to experience. Lone Pine Hotel is right next to the beach, with generous six acres of space, complete with a stable to make you feel as if you are back in the good old days. They also serve old-fashioned Hainanese cuisine at their restaurant.
True that the E&O used to boast to be "the hotel with the longest sea-front in the world". It had played hostess to many dignitaries and celebrities from around the world but it is not only European-styled buildings that are worthy to be considered as heritage hotels.
Right now Eastern&Oriental Hotel in Penang has to be one of the most famous venues for chic functions or a luxurious stay in Penang. Having said that, you have to experience the place itself to validate this opinion.
The Blue Mansion, Cheong Fatt Sze mansion
The Blue Mansion was the former residence of Cheong Fatt Sze, a Chinese Mandarin.
The successfully restored Cheong Fatt Sze Mansion, with its interesting Feng Shui elements is now turned into a boutique hotel, right in the heart of George Town.
The restoration effort of this mansion won several awards from the architectural community.
The Blue Mansion almost fell victim to the development of the city center but thanks to a group of caring citizens, they managed to collect enough funds to buy back the building and turned it back to its former glory. Top notch service and a complete feel of luxury is abundant when you stay here.
Segara Ninda at Upper Penang Road
Segara Ninda - a small heritage hotel at Upper Penang Road.
Please do not forget too, smaller place like Segara Ninda, which had been lovingly maintained and cared for by the descendants of a Malay royalty. Having only twelve rooms, it is almost impossible to get a room here unless one makes the booking well in advance.
A stay at a heritage hotel does not need to be expensive. A good example is1926 Heritage Hotel at Burmah Road. This hotel offers rooms from as low as RM100 per night (about USD30.00). Now, that is what I call a good deal. Yes, it may not be strategically located right in the city center but if you are on holiday, does it hurt to lose a few extra minutes of traveling time to get there?
At Love Lane, the small street where a few guest houses receive backpackers and budget travelers, quaint shop houses also can be termed as heritage lodgings. Granted that you do not get a lot of space or ample service here but they are still old buildings and they are a dying breed.
A lot more old buildings are being turned into such hotels. China Tiger is one of these places. It is only a matter or time before staying at these hotels become more fashionable than at big modern fancy hotels. After all, if you come to visit a UNESCO designated heritage city, you would prefer to stay at such hotel, right?
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Visit Penang must not forget to go to some natural heritages in Penang:
the   entrance to Penang National Park
The entrance to Penang National Park
However, what we have left is quite sufficient for the community, provided that these places will not fall victim to more development in the future. Now the government has set the rule that any land 200 feet above sea level or hill slopes with more than 26% gradient is not allowed to be developed. So, we hope that this rule is observed by all parties involved in developing and decision making.
Some places occur naturally, like Penang National Park and Penang Hill, while some are man-made like Teluk Bahang Dam and Bukit Dumbar reservoir.
Tasik Meromiktik ... an amazing lake right at the seaside at Teluk Bahang
Tasik Meromiktik ... an amazing lake right at the seaside
Day trippers can easily visit any of the places, because Penang is still a small island. You can drive leisurely around the whole island in two hours, or even cycle around on bicycles too.
Jerejak Island on the east side of Penang island used to be a sanitarium for the lepers and also a prison. Now, there is a resort and spa there to replace the sanitarium. Jerejak island has a kind of wilderness which is still intact. It also has some historical relics that could be interesting. However, we have a concern about the current development there that looks to mar the island.
I love going up the Penang Hill, the funicular train is in itself a big treat. The journey is part of the fun as you can view jungle habitat from the train while it is climbing up or down. If you are fit enough, you can hike up the hill using an entrance called the Moongate near the Botanical Garden.
When I was a child, we loved it when we were brought to the Youth Park, either to play the roller blades or to rough it out on the playground. Not to forget having great fun dipping in the natural large cascading pools which now have a landscaped garden around them.
Teluk Bahang dam
Teluk Bahang dam is an artificial lake used as a water reservoir for Penang.
On the north west side, there is a forest museum. If you come from Batu Ferringhi, the entrance is before Teluk Bahang Dam. This forestry museum and arboretum is different from Pantai Acheh Reserve Forest which is part of Penang National Park.
There is an impressive man-made park called the Tropical Spice Garden which is worth visiting.
It is located on the way to Teluk Bahang. In the surrounding area of a bungalow called Lone Craig Villa, the garden is full of tropical herbs and spices. This establishment also comes with a Spice Museum, a Souvenier Shop and a tea house.
The entrance ticket of RM15.00 per person is well worth it. You should not miss the chance to visit this tropical haven. I am sure you would walk out with a lot of new knowledge about the wonder of herbs and spices in the Orient.
Who do not love flowers? The famous Botanical Garden, which is part of a compulsory itinerary for any tourist in Penang is located near Tanjung Bungah. This nature heritage is popularly known also as "Waterfall".
Wild monkeys at Botanical Garden
Wild monkeys at Botanical Garden
The locals come here to work out a sweat and also to bring their family for a great outing in the outdoor. Botanists come from all around the world to study the extensive tropical plant species available here. It is always nice and cool at this place. In order to escape the blistering heat of the beaches and city center, people come here to relax and exercise. Here also you can find many monkeys, which roam wild.
There are a few other places which are not mentioned here yet. Some trails are hiked by the locals only, like the Bukit Jambul trail and also the public park at Relau. Some beaches are also frequented by the locals only like the one at Sungai Batu and Pantai Mas. There is also a mountain bike trail at Pondok Upeh.
As the population of the island grows, we need more and more space to break out of the concrete walls. I am very sure these places will be discovered by more people in the near future.
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We will talk this title for another time. This is just part 1 only.
Bye!!!

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