Showing posts with label Histories. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Histories. Show all posts

Friday, April 8, 2011

Histories... Olden Times... Penang... (PART 4)

#43
8th April

Penang is also a land full with skyscrapers, buildings and many more. This included hotels, shopping complexes, supermarkets and others. Now, let's us talk about the activity -- shopping in Penang!

For previous parts, click here:
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Shopping in Penang comes in a wide range of options. Places to shop (there are tonnes of them!), hawkers food, fine dining and also treasure hunting in terms of souvenirs and antiques would surely occupy your time.


Some places have been around forever, while some, like Little Penang, was recently established to target a specific kind of visitors.
Queensbay Mall in Penang
My most favorite
retail therapy place *wink*
It depends on the kind of goods you are looking for. If you prefer up-market places, Penang has them. There are malls to cater to fashionistas and hunters of branded goods.
Check out Queensbay Mall, Gurney Plaza or Prangin Mall. And of course, the duty free shops at the Bayan Lepas International Airport terminal.
On the other end of the spectrum, there are the flea markets, such as the famous one at Rope Walk. These kinds of places attracted the most visitors. It is part of the game to haggle to get the best bargain.
If you want quality fabric, Chinese jewelry or Rolex watches, shop at Campbell's Street. This street is one of the branches of Penang Road, another shopping paradise for people who are hunting for a bargain. For batik and other crafts, it is best you go to its factory at Teluk Bahang. Besides getting some educational instruction on how batik craft is made, you can see what kind of subjects that inspire the artists there.
Banner at Campbell Street
Campbell Street beckons all shoppers!
There are many reputable art galleries too, with work done by the local artists. If you are an art lover, be sure to check them out.
For snacks, pickles and other delicacies, do not miss the Chowrasta market at Penang Road. The market seriously needs upgrading. Pickles can also be bought at the ferry terminal in George Town. These businesses have been around for generations and a lot are still run in eclectic Straits Chinese shop houses.
For your information, Penang used to be a free duty port. At that time, people flocked to Penang especially to buy consumer electronic goods. Sadly, the status was revoked by the government. There are now calls for the status to be reinstated. We can only wait and hope for the best.
Chowrasta market
Chowrasta is one of the oldest markets in Penang
For a little travel back in time, get on one of those buses that head to Balik Pulau. In this little town, famous laksa is waiting at its market.
It is also where you can get the freshest nutmeg or other pickles at the best price. During fruit season, indulge in fresh fruit tasting at very reasonable price at the fruit farms. Durian, the king of fruit (an acquired taste for many), mangoes, rambutan and manggis are our all time favorites.
Balik Pulau is truly one of the last undeveloped places in Penang. It has many styles of shop houses still left standing. Its street is rarely busy and the only roundabout in the whole town is only about 4 meters in diameter.
Little shops at Balik Pulau town also sell inexpensive clothes. They are mostly of comfortable light material. However, they do not last that long if you do not hand-wash each piece. They are dirt cheap, so what can you expect? I am sure these clothes were made for travelers who need clothes but do not want to carry with them around too much.
Clothes at Little India
Clothes on sale at Little India
If you like eclectic Indian wares, find them at Little India(this is an area covered by China Street, Market Street, King Street, Queen Street). For intricate gold jewelry, browse through fine jewelers at Pitt Street (Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling).
On the other side of the island, along the roadside on Batu Ferringi, there is a night market every night. This market sells many little shody things that tourists like to bring back home to show that they have been to Penang. T-shirts of all kind can be found here. It is not unlike night markets in Phuket or Padang Besar.
For one whole month each year in December, Pesta Pulau Pinang at Sungai Nibong houses the largest collection of goods that you can find on the island. The fair is open from 6 p.m. till midnight. Make sure that you wear comfortable shoes to walk this place. I guarantee you that you will drop massaging your feet after a night out like that. However, in recent year, the goods offered at Pesta seemed to be on the shoddy side, but it is still worth to check out if you visit and want to do some shopping in Penang during December.
Shopping in Penang is never exhaustive. There will always be things that would interest you, no matter what your preferences are. Bring a lot of cash, that's for sure. Come on, let's go crazy, have fun shopping in Penang.
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Hmm... I think I loss out something that more describe Penang is a food heaven... YES!!! Food!!! This is the important and the most precious option that you need to try when you visit Penang!!!
Too much theories to write, if can, log on to these website:
www.visitpenang.gov.my
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That's all for the Penang. We already investigated the whole Penang, and also found the reasons, why UNESCO recommended Penang as a heritage city.
We must count our bless to live in a glorious place. We also must be proud that Malaysia is a nation that painted with colours of cultures, histories, arts and also the Independence of Malaysia!!!


Histories... Olden Times... Penang... (PART 3)

#42
8th April

Penang must not left with some important elements, they are events, festivals and arts. These elements are included into this part of the main title. For previous parts, click here:
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The events in Penang are internationality, some international events also held in Penang:


PISA
The main exhibition hall at PISA


As of cultural related events, non-Malaysian celebrations are organized too, like the Japanese Bon Ondori festivals which is held at the Esplanade (Padang Kota Lama) each July.

Thai water festival also has its own version in Penang as there is a large number of Siamese community in this state. Do not be surprised that October Fest is also celebrated here by beer-loving Germans and the locals.
To host these events, Penang has a number of international standard venues.
One of them is PISA (Penang International Sports and Aquatic Arena). PISA has an Olympic sized swimming pool together with a deep pool, perfect for diving and synchronized swimming.
The pool is used by many clubs to train their swimmers and divers for competitions.
Another part of the complex has exhibition halls, perfect for trade shows, concerts (indoor or outdoor) or a massive rally. There is also space for rent for badminton games and futsal.
Teluk Bahang reservoir
Teluk Bahang Reservoir is perfect
for dragon boat race
It is for nothing that Tourism Malaysia touts Penang as the perfect venue to hold MICE (meeting, incentive, competition/convention and exhibition). International events in Penang are a breeze to organize.
Hotels and guest houses in Penang are accustomed to serving many kinds of travelers and businessmen. The hospitality industry is packed with well trained staff who know exactly what they should do to ensure your events run smoothly and your stay hassle-free.
Penang also makes full use of its natural or manmade locales for the venues of international events in Penang.
For example, the Penang Bridge International Marathon crosses the Penang Bridge, BASE jumping show takes off from the top of KOMTAR tower and the international skim boarding competition is held at the beach of Tanjung Bungah to an enthusiastic crowd.
The annual international dragon boat races initially were held at the Gurney Drive, Mengkuang Dam and later on the Teluk Bahang water reservoir.
Main field at USM
Heritage buildings face the main field at USM
In December 2008, the dragon boat race was scheduled for the first time at the channel between Pulau Jerejak and the big island, at Queensbay. However, due to some reason, it was still held at Teluk Bahang Dam and in its place a fishing competition was held instead at Queesbay.
University Sains Malaysia (USM) is also no stranger for international level cricket and hockey tournaments. The campus has one of the best sports facilities in the country. The football, cricket and rugby pitches are located right on its main entrance.
USM olympic sized pool football  pitch at  USM
The Olympic sized pool and the football (soccer) pitch at USM
Rows of tennis courts, an Astroturf field for hockey and a stadium with synthetic track are located on the other side of the campus. There is also an Olympic sized swimming pool built on the slope of a picturesque setting. Even archery and a mini golf putting green are available. You name it, USM has it. USM is also dubbed as being the most scenic university in Malaysia.
Besides the events mentioned above, there are many others which hardly made the news because the target group is relatively small. Events calendars are usually published semi-annually in advance by Penang Tourism Act Council. You may also see past years event calendars as comparison.
At any rate, organizers will be spoilt for choice when they consider holding international events in Penang. The status of George Town as one of UNESCO's heritage cities of the world makes it even more so.
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Moreover, festivals also can be found or always held in Penang, that's wonderful:
Religious festivals in Penang are evidence that people of different races and religions can live together in harmony. Sure, there are several taboos and practices which are not accepted by the others but instead of openly fighting them, they are tolerated quietly. The believers of the other religions simply ignore the rituals performed which are not related to their own beliefs and live their lives as usual. The invisible boundaries are observed by mutual respect.
Thaipusam Ching Ming
Left: Thaipusam
Right: Ching Ming
ketupat icon
Ketupat is the icon for Eid in Malaysia
However, major religious festivals are celebrated together. Open houses are really open to everyone. Before the towns became cities and the cost of living was not so high, people really spent time, effort and money to make extravagant parties.
Now, due to economic reasons, time constraint and also different neighborly values, a typical open house normally is not as lavish as it used to be.
I find that the older people get, the less sociable they become, barring a few special cases. If you see children, you can see that they can mix and play freely together, even without having to speak the same languages.
Malaysia must be the only country in the world which has so many public holidays related to religious festivals. There are at least 14 days of these holidays in a year throughout the country not counting the smaller festivals which are only observed in certain states. Some people might say this is the reason why the country is not advancing as fast as it should be. Perhaps this is due to too many holidays that reduce productivity.
3rd day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, the spitting oil ceremony
3rd day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, the spitting oil ceremony
There are four major religions in the country: Islam, Buddhism, Hinduism and Christianity. There is a path in George Town which is known as the Street of Harmony because there are four major religions having their house of worships practically next to each other.
Between those religions, there are also Taoism, Confucianism, Sikh. It is not strange that the same household celebrates Chinese New Year as well as Christmas. Or, Deepavali together with Wesak Day. The reason is because, under one roof, there could be individuals with different religious beliefs. Inter-marriage between the races also make these celebrations very interesting to observe.
autumn lantern festival
Welcome autumn!
So, for the Muslims, the fasting month of Ramadhan is nicely ended with Hari Raya Puasa (Eid-Ul-Fitri). There are many events associated with Ramadhan. Two months after Aidil Fitri later there is another Hari Raya Haji which celebrates the pilgrimage rituals in Mecca.
For the Hindus, Deepavali and Thaipusam are among the major celebrations. The Mahamariamman temple at Little India is the starting point for Thaipusam street procession.
Christians from all walks of life celebrate Easter, Good Friday, Christmas and also the patron saints days.
For the Chinese, Thai, Eurasians and Indians who are Buddhists, they celebrate Wesak Day.
dragon incense for hungry ghost festival
Dragon incense for hungry ghost festival
Besides religious festivals, the Chinese are also noted for having so many other celebrations related to their ancestral worship. There are Chinese New Year, hungry ghost festivals, lantern festivals, Chap Goh Mei, Moon festival and many others too many to mention here. You may read in more details here about the description of Chinese Festivals.
For Malaysians, almost everything revolves around food. The religious festivals are the perfect times to indulge in tasting all kinds of food. The variety and the creativity of the cooks is really amazing. This is the time when traditional cuisine is much appreciated and when people make the effort to make delicate, time consuming fares for a celebration that is supposed to come only once a year.
Street processions in Penang are typical of Asian street processions. Many of them are held throughout the year. Some of them are based on religious beliefs (either for celebration or funerary) and some are held annually to commemorate certain events. They are part of why cultural Penang heritage is unique if they were to be compared to America Latin Mardi Gras, for example.
There are always reasons for the people in Penang to organize and participate in such events. Thaipusam street procession by Hindu devotees, for example, is the most famous.
a Hindu devotee carrying milk as part of the Thaipusam ritual
A Hindu devotee carrying milk as
part of the ritual during Thaipusam
It draws visitors from around the world to witness and also to join in. It is the time for them to see and experience first hand the rituals, the customs and everything related to Thaipusam held in Penang.
Contrary to most people's perception, Thaipusam is not all about body piercing to atone for the sins committed or to pay the Gods for fulfilled wishes.
The street processions in Penang associated with Thaipusam have much more elements to it.
Visitors are even invited to eat the vegetarian meals at the temples.
Everyone is welcome to join the procession which sometimes starts before dawn depending on which days of the celebration.
For Nine Emperor's Gods festival, the street processions in Penang are done on the last night of the festival, when the spirit of the Gods is let go to the sea in the ceremonial ship made out of paper and lit with lanterns. The procession usually starts from major Chinese temples and ends at the beach or the seaside.
Maulidur Rasul celebration for the Muslim is the birthday of the Prophet Muhammad. Street procession is done also as part of the celebration. Usually a group of kompangplayers (hand held drums), with a procession following, chanting the praise to Allah and the Prophet Muhammad. It is usually done in mid-morning, covering several streets in the town or villages.
Fierce looking fan dancers
Fierce looking dancers with red fans can be part of a street procession in Penang
Sometimes a street procession is also done during the Al-Asyura day (the tenth day of the month of Muharramaccording to the Islamic calendar), to commemorate the exodus of Muhammad followers from Mecca to Medina.
During the St. Anne festival, a patron saint for a church in Bukit Mertajam, there is also a street procession as part of its celebration.
Besides all these, annual events in Penang like Pesta Pulau Pinang have street processions too.
This festival is done all month long each December.
The purpose of the month-long event is mostly as a catalyst to the local businesses, especially those who are involved in tourism.
Of course, Malaysian National Day also has the local version of street procession in Penang. George Town also has its City Day when it was recognized as a city by QEII in 1957.
Floats are common during street processions. So are traditional show like Chingay(balancing acts using massive, tall flagpoles), the Chinese lion dance, kolattam which is based on Silambam (stick fighting martial arts by the Indian), Pencak Silat (Malay martial art) and also giant drums performance. During the floral festival, floats are beautifully decorated with flowers and fun statues. Adorned with fair maidens in beautiful costumes. We could see almost all of these during the celebration of Penang Heritage City.
Cordoned street area to allow for the procession to pass through
Cordoned street area to allow for
the procession to pass through
All processional streets are usually determined a few days or even months before.
The police and enforcement bodies will approve which streets are to be cordoned and the routes that are to be taken.
Street processions in Penang are peaceful affairs, full of energy, fun and excitement. The atmosphere is amazing. It has to be experienced to be believed.
Decent behavior are mostly observed. There are no lewd acts allowed, to the norm of traditional Asian culture.


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Must not loss out artificial arts and crafts, that's also shows Penang is a glorious land, a creative land with the arts:
There are quite a number of museums and art galleries in Penang. A few heritage buildings are also turned into museums. Some are not even called museums, but because of the number of antiquities being stored and maintained in the buildings, they could be categorized as one.
Museums and Art Galleries in Penang
Pinang Peranakan Mansion
However, some of the museums are not the typical heritage style that you would expect e.g. the Toy Museum.
Penang surprisingly has a range of museums that cover many heritage backgrounds. The trick is to find them and to get a knowledgeable guide that can make your visit more interesting.
However, some of the museums are not the typical heritage style that you would expect e.g. the Toy Museum.
Penang surprisingly has a range of museums that cover many heritage backgrounds. The trick is to find them and to get a knowledgeable guide that can make your visit more interesting.
Some of you may think that a self-guided tour is sufficient. True, it may well be the case but if you have a local guide to explain to you the significance of certain things, the tour would be more meaningful.
Here is the list of museums that falls in the category:
There is also a thriving art scene on the island. Even though not comparable to the ones in Kuala Lumpur (KL having more potential buyers), Penang does have a number of local artists who produce unique art work with varying quality. Supported by art aficionados, they survive due to pure diligence and the attitude of never giving up.
Here is a list of some interesting art galleries to check out:
  • The Tribal Art gallery
  • Jin Xiu Art Gallery
  • Yahong Art gallery
  • Alpha Utara gallery
  • ArtGrup
  • A2 gallery
  • Galeri Art Point
  • Galeri Seni Mutiara
  • LeKuan Art gallery
  • Pinang Gallery (under Penang State Museum)
*Please note that even though Pinang gallery is under the management of the state museum, the gallery is not located at the museum itself. It has its own show room at Dewan Sri Penang. The list of art exhibitions scheduled can be seen here.
The artists have several art societies that they belong to. Among them are:
  • Penang Art Society
  • Penang Water Color Society
  • Penang Oil Painter Society
  • Penang Malay Painters Society
Considering the size of Penang, the number of museums and art galleries are quite a lot. In my opinion, they are not getting the attention they deserve. Most people do not really appreciate the collection of antiquities or unique items being displayed in these museums and art galleries. The majority mostly pass it by quickly and a whole lot more skip the visit altogether.
What they need to understand is that, these items, although old and may seem boring, would never be reproduced again. So, what are you waiting for? Go and see them before they disappear forever.
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That's for all for the third part, next time is the last part about Penang. So, wait for me!!!


Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Histories... Olden Times... Penang... (PART 2)

#41
5th April

The first part of this title not enough to talk about the cultures of Penang. This time, I will help you to take a further investigation about the cultures, festivals, ethnics, events, arts and also shopping in Penang!!! I like that too!!!
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This is about the Malay Customs in Penang, but it also can be found in whole Malaysia:

Malay customs practiced in Penang and other states in Malaysia somewhat differ from place to place. There are some common aspects that cover rituals throughout their lives. The Malays as a race are somewhat divided into many other ethnic groups, depending on their geographical locations.


However, some of them do share a few common principles. The old Malays have a saying: "Biar mati anak jangan mati adat" It means: "We'd rather let our children die than abandoning our customs". Sounds harsh maybe, but that is the way it goes in this part of the world.
Malay customs include elaborate rituals, table manners, costumes for daily wear and also for special occasions, filial piety, way of working and a myriad of beliefs, taboos, do's and don'ts.
Kompang the hand held drum
Kompang is a hand-held drum made of cow's hide.

A lot of traditional paraphernalia are used during all these ceremonies. They involve costumes as well as crafts especially made for the event. Some of them include tepak sirih (betel nut holder), sirih junjung (betel leaves floral arrangement), pulut kuning (yellow glutinous rice), sintok limau (kaffir lime). All these are synonym with Malay customs. Musical instruments include kompang (hand-held drums) and nafiri (flute).

Before Birth

The rituals and ceremonies will accompany Malay men or women since birth to their deaths. From the wombs of their mothers, unborn babies are blessed during their seventh month of pregnancy. This ceremony is called "melenggang perut". Literally meaning "blessing the belly". What happen during this ceremony is a coconut with its husk cleanly shaven off is rolled on the tummy of the mother-to-be.
A midwife who is well versed with the arcane art of divinity can predict whether the baby will be a boy or a girl just by looking the way the coconut roll off the belly. Later on, the coconut is halved and its juice poured into a glass for the pregnant woman to consume, blessed with magical incantation mixed with verses from the Al-Quran. The Malaya believe that coconut juice, if regularly drunk, will assist in easier delivery of the baby.
Here is an entertaining description about this ritual, as explained by Wan, a Malay language teacher. Istiadat Melenggang Perut.

Newborn

baby's head being shaved by a Malay midwife
Baby's head shaving
done by a Malay midwife.
Newborn babies, as in everywhere in the world, are precious bundles of joy, especially if it is a male first-born child.
Naturally, boys are treated differently from girls. One of the common ceremonies that is carried out is the shaving ceremony whereby the hair of the baby is shaven clean.
The idea is that, the hair that grows inside the womb is unclean and the scalp needs to be scraped of any residue that comes out of the womb. Sintok and fresh lime are used to clean the scalp.
In the picture you can see a midwife performing the shaving ceremony with a normal safety razor.
In the old days, very sharp cut-throat razors were used instead. It is definitely a highly skilled job to be able to shave the baby's head without hurting him.
The kaffir lime is cut into slices and the pieces let fall into the water. It is believed that the way the lime falls in the water may give an indication of the behavior of the baby when he grows up. This is of course mere superstitious because if we were to believe all these beliefs, no one will be able to move forward at all in their lives.
rinsing the baby with clean water after shaving
Rinsing the baby in lime-scented water.
After shaving, the baby is bathed with warm water, scented with sliced kaffir lime to freshen him up. Some babies cry during this ordeal but most remain calm because the midwives are able to say the magic words seeking protection from God from any untoward incident.
Along the way, the babies may or not be circumcised, for the baby girls, the ceremony is done before they reach two years old. Nowadays it is common for baby girls to be circumcised as soon as they are born at the hospital.
One of Malay customs that is losing its popularity is the "first step on the ground" ceremony. The baby, by this time has grown into a toddler are guided to touch the ground with its bare feet. This is party time. Normally done to coincide with the baby's first birthday.

Pre-pubescent years

Around the age of ten to twelve, the circumcision ceremony for boys is normally carried out. For girls, it is ear-piercing ceremony. These two rituals normally coincide with "berkhatam Quran", whereby the children finished learning reciting the Holy Book from a Guru. Yellow glutinous rice is always served during these festivities. This special rice dish symbolizes prosperity.

Adulthood

Well, what else is there when you reach adulthood? Parents expect their grown up children to start a family of their own. Malays observe truly elaborate and complicated rituals before even a betrothal can take place. Even though many of these steps are no longer in practice, it is interesting to know them. Here are the steps:
  • Merisik ("spying" if the young lady is still available)
  • Bertandang (visit of the future in-laws to "view" the young lady in question)
  • Cincin tanda (exchanging of rings and gifts signifying that she is taken)
  • Bertunang (betrothal, formal engagement)
  • Bernikah (the official union done by the Imam)
  • Kenduri/Bersanding (wedding feast)
Bersanding is a part of the ceremony in a  Malay wedding
Bersanding is part of the ceremony
in a Malay wedding
There are many taboos to observe so as not to give offense to anyone. After all, this is a very serious matter. Future in-laws will have many meetings to determine the suitability of the union. Then, there is also the matter of the dowry which is usually the main thing that the whole village want to know. There is a lot of heartache associated with a broken engagement. For the Malays, being highly sensitive and proud in nature, even a broken engagement will bring a lot of shame to the whole family, let alone a divorce.
In the old days, most marriages were arranged by the parents or relatives. The young couple sometimes never met until on their wedding day. During this modern days, Malay couples flirt and go on dates just like everyone else.
After the wedding, the cycle repeats, when the couple have their firstborn. Along the way, some people die. Death is a solemn affair, the dead is handled following the Islamic rites. Before, during and after the burial, there are prayers. Mourning is observed for forty days. On the fortieth day usually, members of the family of the deceased usually will feed the poor so that the act of the alms will ease the passing of the dead.
Between all the rituals mentioned above, there are a whole lot more to learn about Malay customs. If you truly want to understand the culture, it is best to live among the community and take part in the rituals and ceremonies that are held.
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This is about the Baba and Nyonya cultures, mostly can be found in Penang and Melaka:
Baba and nyonya culture in Penang is pretty different from the ones in Malacca (Melaka), Medan, Singapore or Kota Bharu. If there is a group of Nyonyas and Babas in Melaka who speak exclusively Malay, their counterpart in Penang speak a mixture of Hokkien, Malay and English. The food also has a slight variation too. Not surprising in this sense, since the two places are geographically different.
penang peranakan mansion
Penang Peranakan Mansion at Church Street.
The Babas and Nyonyas are of ethnic Chinese but they were born in Penang.
They adopt a lot of local clothing, food, language and culture too in their daily lives. Mainly from the Malay and European culture.
For example, the Nyonya food uses a lot of chilies to make sambal in their food.
There is a dish called Sambal Hei Bee (Sambal Udang kering) and there is a snack called Roti Ayam which uses chopped fresh chilies as the sauce. They are also famous for tiny cakes called nyonya kuih. The amount of time and effort that went into making these cakes are amazing.
This is from the influence of Malay dining habit which does not consider a meal is complete without chilies or anything spicy.
In terms of their clothing, the men adopt the western style of clothing mainly for daily wear. They wear Chinese style tunic for special occasions. The ladies, on the other hand, have a lot of choice in fashion.
One set of attire that is associated with the Nyonyas is the kebaya. This item of clothing originally came from the royal Indonesian court. The intricate embroidery that is embedded in the design makes each of the kebaya unique. The patterns are normally inspired by nature, intertwined vines or tropical birds and butterflies. They are truly beautiful and it is a dying art too since there are not many skilled artisans left to sew the kebaya the old way.
tiffin carriers
Tiffin carriers used by the Nyonyas
In terms of language, you can see a sprinkling of Malay words in the Hokkien dialect as spoken in Penang, like the word: "suka", meaning "like".
The old Malay ways of entertainment like joget, dondang sayang and ronggeng also were enjoyed by the Paranakan Cina in Penang. The type of dancing by the nyonyas uses props like sapu tangan (using handkerchiefs), tarian kipas (using fans), mangkuk tingkat (tiffin carrier) and even oranges.
The majority of the Babas became learned academics instead of turning into enterprising businessmen. They were sent by their parents mainly to study in England. As such, the younger generations were very much influenced by the western ways.
I was very delighted when I came across a book of Baba and Nyonya poetry written by Johny Chee a few weeks ago. It is a treasure that captures much of the essence of the culture from the perspective of daily rhymes and slang. If you want to know more about Baba and Nyonya culture in Penang, this book is highly recommended. The second edition comes with a CD so that you can listen and pronounce the words correctly.
On the other hand, if you wish to see the grandeur of the lifestyle of a bygone era, a visit to the Peranakan Mansion is a must. It showcases many fine examples of Baba and Nyonya culture in Penang.
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Traditional ethnic clothes must not keep away from Penang, that's important:
Even though Penang can be called a metropolitan city, traditional ethnic clothes, which have been worn for the last two hundred years or so, still survive.
Baba and Nyonya
A group of Peranakan China (Babas and Nyonyas), with the ladies wearing kebaya and batik sarong. (Photo from the private collection of Dr. Farish A. Noor and the www.Othermalaysia.org research project)
modern day nyonya
Modern day Nyonyas with some of the ladies
wearing kebayas in several styles.
The best times to see them are during weddings, special occasions, religious festivities and also whenever there are cultural showcases being performed for tourists and visitors.
Young ladies of Penang wearing minority ethnic Chinese costumes
Young ladies of Penang wearing minority ethnic Chinese costumes
Some government or formal functions also call for traditional ethnic clothes as dress codes, so they do get a bit of attention once in a while.
Usually for semi-formal functions, clothes made using batik (either silk, polyester or cotton) are widely used.
Traditional ethnic clothes are hardly practical to be used in all their glory for daily wear, due to their elaborate way of wearing and also the high cost. So, it is quite understandable that most of them had to be tailor-made, which drives the cost even higher.
Cheaper version can be had. They are mass produced and sold at normal stores but of course the quality and the fit are not as good as the more expensive ones. The fashion also evolves over the year especially for ladies wear.
pendekar costume worn by a Malay man.
This is a "pendekar" (Malay warrior) costume. The samping uses "kain pelikat". The kris is worn as a weapon.
In order to be fully decked in such traditional costumes, a lot of accessories are required to complete the look. For example, it would not do for a man to wear baju Melayu while wearing a pair of western style shoes.
They have to be worn with a pair of sandals instead. These sandals are known as "chapal". They are also no buttons for the top, instead, five sets of cuff-links are used to secure the collar, "baju cekak musang".
The fabric? Since Penang is in the tropics, it makes sense to use materials which are light and airy. The sarong is universally worn by many races.
For the immigrants of Penang back in the 19th century, wearing batik and eating the local food were some of the ways to blend themselves with the native people.
It is very common to see a Nyonya wearing batik sarong, neat with a chignon and a cotton blouse or kebaya. We can also see Indian ladies wearing batik sarong with her top too.
For the Malays, batik sarong is worn as daily attire, in every which way for both men and women.
Peranakan Jawi, China or Arab resulted from intermarriages between all these ethnic groups and add to the colors of attire worn by people of Penang.
Batik using cotton or synthetic materials are widely used. For more regal occasions, songket, saree and brocade are chosen. These materials are truly expensive because they use gold and silver thread.
Modern variations of the simple kebaya. arab madura ladies wearing kebaya
Modern variations of kebaya (left) compared to the older versions.
Photo on the right is from the private collection of Dr. Farish A. Noor and the www.Othermalaysia.org research project.
What about the style? You can bet, with all the ethnic groups in Penang, the styles are mixed and matched following the current trend. We can see Chinese nyonyas wearing kebaya with batik sarong. We can see a Malay lady wearing baju kurungusing the material meant for saree. It is also possible to see a young lady with tight jeans using sheer kebaya as a jacket instead of a western style top.
Indian men and women in their traditional clothes during Thaipusam
Indian men and women in their traditional clothes during Thaipusam
If we check the men's clothing, elderly Indian men wear dhotis, Malay men wearsamping which could be made out of songket or kain pelikat and Chinese men wear loose trousers and sam foo. The cut sometimes steers away from the tradition, for a more comfortable fit.
A variety of style of Indian traditional clothes for ladies
A variety of style of Indian
traditional clothes for ladies.
Traditional ethnic clothes are divided by racial groups but there are some common traits. For example, it is normal for the ladies to use a shawl. It is a sign of modesty.
Ladies also invariably wear long dresses or skirts, except for the salwar kameez, an Indian costume, which consists of a loose top paired with a pair of pants. The salwar kameez suit for official functions is very elegant when it is worn together with apashmina shawl.
A lot of press has been received by nyonya kebaya lately. What are they? Let's check out this article which examines these unique traditional ethnic clothes worn by the Straits Settlement Chinese ladies.
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All of I want to say today is about cultures and ethnic of the Penang only, there's still a lot of theoies I need to figure out. Next time, I will talk about the events, festivals and arts in Penang at Part 3.
Bye!!!



Sunday, April 3, 2011

Histories... Olden Times... Penang... (PART 1)

#40
3rd April

The title will talking about my hometown ----- Penang.

Everyone knows this wonderful place, a glorious place, which can let you to tantalize to taste and smell the aromas of the enriched histories in the olden times.

Well, Penang is one of the historical place that already recommended by United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). Heritage buildings, cultures, events, festivals, arts, great shopping complexes... All of these can be found in Penang. This is why Penang is so beautiful and very attractive.

Talk about heritage buildings:

Penang Supreme Courthouse
This is Penang's Supreme Court building,
a major renovation was done in 2007.
Naturally, the English heritage buildings are the most imposing. Penang was part of the British Empire for almost two hundred years.
FMS
The clock tower of the former FMS building in George Town. The building is now used as Penang's Custom Department.
The style of architecture is neo-classical which stays true to the order of architecture. A lot of fine examples can be found at the banking district at Beach Street.
Government buildings that house lawyers and decision-makers are perfect examples of British-style heritage buildings.
These buildings have massive Doric columns modeled after the Parthenon of the ancient Greek. They become fine examples of heritage buildings in Penang.
Besides the buildings, there are monuments to commemorate soldiers who fell during the war, places of worship,private mansions and also some other landmarks.
Next, come the Chinese clans. There are five major clans (kongsi) which have their own areas where the leaders hold court. This is a self-sustained community, complete with temples, mansions , residences and lecture halls.
The biggest clan house is the Khoo Kongsi. It is located in the heritage enclave. Once, it was burned down because its similarity to the Royal Palace of the Emperor of China was too close. Later, the building was rebuilt, nonetheless, the beauty of its carvings are stunning. The next one worth mentioning is the Cheah Kongsi. It is also located within the heritage zone of the inner George Town. Once inside the walls of this Kongsi, the hustle and bustle of the city outside is miraculously toned down.
Khoo Kongsi intricate details
Intricate and rich details of Khoo Kongsi's Ancestral Worship Hall.
Beautiful, intricately built temples serve as dramatic background to spacious courtyards. Life revolves around spiritual beliefs, elaborate customs, desire to prosper by trading and amassing wealth.
The beauty of the carvings came by importing Chinese artisans to come and work in Penang itself.
The last two points show how the Chinese Straits shop houses are so important to the business community in George Town. For almost two hundred years, the shophouses have played the major part in fuelling the trade on the island.
The styles of the shophouses have changed tremendously, in step with the growth of the city. Without them, the city would have lost its trademark identity. That is why a sample of a shop house graces the logo of Penang Heritage City web site.
Besides those shophouses, private mansions deserve accolades for massive restoration works like the ] Cheong Fatt Tze mansion.
Rich and powerful Muslim traders that came from India, the Middle East and Indonesia also played a significant role in building the city in the 19th century. Before air transport became available, Penang was the meeting place for pilgrims who were waiting for the trade wind to sail to Mecca. So, the city became a significant learning center for Islam. Beautiful mosques and shrines were built in the area designated by the British ruler for this group. They are also recognized as heritage buildings in Penang.
Kapitan Keling Mosque at Pitt Street
Masjid Kapitan Keling at the Street of Harmony
Other minority groups also have their special places. The Armenian Sarkies brothers, notably, built the fame Eastern and Oriental Hotel (E&O). Without doubt, it is one of the finest example of heritage hotels. The Burmese and Thais built their temples near Gurney Drive. The Hindus who are mainly from South India have their own temples all around the city. The South Indians also maintain the rows of shop houses along Chulia Street, King Street and Queen Street. So, it is hardly surprising that these streets are given the nickname "Little India".
How could UNESCO Heritage World Cities program refuse such a rich mix of history, culture and human achievement? Even then, it took us over ten years to restore a large number of heritage buildings in Penang. The streets are re-organized and the state spent a lot of resources and did plenty of research before the status of historic city was accorded to George Town on July 7th, 2008.
This process is by no means complete. With the title, comes a huge responsibility! Now we have to help maintain these treasures. By education, creating awareness and doing the right things so that the heritage buildings in Penang are cherished forever.
Kuan Yin temple at the street of harmony
Kuan Yin Goddess of Mercy Temple at the Street of Harmony is the oldest Chinese temple in Penang.
You should know that the main thing that won UNESCO officials over was the "Street of Harmony".

What is the "Street of Harmony"?

It is the presence of four major religions places of worship in one street. Notably the Jalan Kapitan Keling (formerly known as Pitt Street).
In this street, if you walk from the Heritage Enclave towards the Esplanade, you will encounter a Chinese temple (Yap Temple), a Muslim mosque (Masjid Kapitan Keling), an Indian Temple (Sri Mahamariamman Temple), another Chinese temple (Kuan Yin Temple) and St George Church. All within 2 kilometers distance in a straight line.
Actually if you walk around the city, you will see many more fine examples of Streets of Harmony, besides the "official one". You will see people can live together in peaceful conduct and respecting each others' beliefs.
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And, also talk about the heritage hotels, some great which enriched with historical cultures hotels:
Huge pillars, large sweeping staircase that leads to the ballroom, spacious rooms with wooden louvers and verandahs.
Think about the time when the gentlemen had to wear white tropical suits and the ladies strolled around in flowing gowns and holding parasols with gloved hands; and they would not be out of place when placed in such surroundings.
E&O Hotel before renovation in the 1970s
An old picture of the E&O Hotel, before countless renovations were carried out.
Many people would only think of the E&O Hotel when they talk about old distinguished hotels in Penang. I beg to differ, it's sister hotel, the Lone Pine Hotelat Batu Ferringhi, is also something you would like to experience. Lone Pine Hotel is right next to the beach, with generous six acres of space, complete with a stable to make you feel as if you are back in the good old days. They also serve old-fashioned Hainanese cuisine at their restaurant.
True that the E&O used to boast to be "the hotel with the longest sea-front in the world". It had played hostess to many dignitaries and celebrities from around the world but it is not only European-styled buildings that are worthy to be considered as heritage hotels.
Right now Eastern&Oriental Hotel in Penang has to be one of the most famous venues for chic functions or a luxurious stay in Penang. Having said that, you have to experience the place itself to validate this opinion.
The Blue Mansion, Cheong Fatt Sze mansion
The Blue Mansion was the former residence of Cheong Fatt Sze, a Chinese Mandarin.
The successfully restored Cheong Fatt Sze Mansion, with its interesting Feng Shui elements is now turned into a boutique hotel, right in the heart of George Town.
The restoration effort of this mansion won several awards from the architectural community.
The Blue Mansion almost fell victim to the development of the city center but thanks to a group of caring citizens, they managed to collect enough funds to buy back the building and turned it back to its former glory. Top notch service and a complete feel of luxury is abundant when you stay here.
Segara Ninda at Upper Penang Road
Segara Ninda - a small heritage hotel at Upper Penang Road.
Please do not forget too, smaller place like Segara Ninda, which had been lovingly maintained and cared for by the descendants of a Malay royalty. Having only twelve rooms, it is almost impossible to get a room here unless one makes the booking well in advance.
A stay at a heritage hotel does not need to be expensive. A good example is1926 Heritage Hotel at Burmah Road. This hotel offers rooms from as low as RM100 per night (about USD30.00). Now, that is what I call a good deal. Yes, it may not be strategically located right in the city center but if you are on holiday, does it hurt to lose a few extra minutes of traveling time to get there?
At Love Lane, the small street where a few guest houses receive backpackers and budget travelers, quaint shop houses also can be termed as heritage lodgings. Granted that you do not get a lot of space or ample service here but they are still old buildings and they are a dying breed.
A lot more old buildings are being turned into such hotels. China Tiger is one of these places. It is only a matter or time before staying at these hotels become more fashionable than at big modern fancy hotels. After all, if you come to visit a UNESCO designated heritage city, you would prefer to stay at such hotel, right?
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Visit Penang must not forget to go to some natural heritages in Penang:
the   entrance to Penang National Park
The entrance to Penang National Park
However, what we have left is quite sufficient for the community, provided that these places will not fall victim to more development in the future. Now the government has set the rule that any land 200 feet above sea level or hill slopes with more than 26% gradient is not allowed to be developed. So, we hope that this rule is observed by all parties involved in developing and decision making.
Some places occur naturally, like Penang National Park and Penang Hill, while some are man-made like Teluk Bahang Dam and Bukit Dumbar reservoir.
Tasik Meromiktik ... an amazing lake right at the seaside at Teluk Bahang
Tasik Meromiktik ... an amazing lake right at the seaside
Day trippers can easily visit any of the places, because Penang is still a small island. You can drive leisurely around the whole island in two hours, or even cycle around on bicycles too.
Jerejak Island on the east side of Penang island used to be a sanitarium for the lepers and also a prison. Now, there is a resort and spa there to replace the sanitarium. Jerejak island has a kind of wilderness which is still intact. It also has some historical relics that could be interesting. However, we have a concern about the current development there that looks to mar the island.
I love going up the Penang Hill, the funicular train is in itself a big treat. The journey is part of the fun as you can view jungle habitat from the train while it is climbing up or down. If you are fit enough, you can hike up the hill using an entrance called the Moongate near the Botanical Garden.
When I was a child, we loved it when we were brought to the Youth Park, either to play the roller blades or to rough it out on the playground. Not to forget having great fun dipping in the natural large cascading pools which now have a landscaped garden around them.
Teluk Bahang dam
Teluk Bahang dam is an artificial lake used as a water reservoir for Penang.
On the north west side, there is a forest museum. If you come from Batu Ferringhi, the entrance is before Teluk Bahang Dam. This forestry museum and arboretum is different from Pantai Acheh Reserve Forest which is part of Penang National Park.
There is an impressive man-made park called the Tropical Spice Garden which is worth visiting.
It is located on the way to Teluk Bahang. In the surrounding area of a bungalow called Lone Craig Villa, the garden is full of tropical herbs and spices. This establishment also comes with a Spice Museum, a Souvenier Shop and a tea house.
The entrance ticket of RM15.00 per person is well worth it. You should not miss the chance to visit this tropical haven. I am sure you would walk out with a lot of new knowledge about the wonder of herbs and spices in the Orient.
Who do not love flowers? The famous Botanical Garden, which is part of a compulsory itinerary for any tourist in Penang is located near Tanjung Bungah. This nature heritage is popularly known also as "Waterfall".
Wild monkeys at Botanical Garden
Wild monkeys at Botanical Garden
The locals come here to work out a sweat and also to bring their family for a great outing in the outdoor. Botanists come from all around the world to study the extensive tropical plant species available here. It is always nice and cool at this place. In order to escape the blistering heat of the beaches and city center, people come here to relax and exercise. Here also you can find many monkeys, which roam wild.
There are a few other places which are not mentioned here yet. Some trails are hiked by the locals only, like the Bukit Jambul trail and also the public park at Relau. Some beaches are also frequented by the locals only like the one at Sungai Batu and Pantai Mas. There is also a mountain bike trail at Pondok Upeh.
As the population of the island grows, we need more and more space to break out of the concrete walls. I am very sure these places will be discovered by more people in the near future.
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We will talk this title for another time. This is just part 1 only.
Bye!!!